The History and Evolution of Kinky Hair Since Slavery
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- Slavery Period (16th-19th centuries)
During the Transatlantic Slave Trade, people captured in Africa were transported to the Americas. Kinky hair was often mistreated due to the poor living conditions. Slaves did not have access to hair care, which led to problems like tangled hair and hair loss. Slave women used traditional African methods to care for their hair, but these methods were limited by the harshness of their daily lives.
- Post-Slavery and Early 20th Century
After the abolition of slavery, African Americans continued to face segregation and discrimination. Kinky hair was often stigmatized, seen as "uncivilized" by Eurocentric beauty standards. This led to the increasing use of chemicals to straighten hair, such as relaxers. The pioneer of this era, Madam C.J. Walker, started a hair care company to help black women take care of their hair, becoming the first black female millionaire in the United States.
- Civil Rights Movement and the 60s-70s
In the 1960s and 1970s, the Civil Rights Movement fostered a revival of racial and cultural pride among African Americans. The slogan "Black is Beautiful" encouraged Black people to embrace their identity and natural appearance. Afro hair, in particular, became a symbol of resistance and cultural pride. Icons like Angela Davis and members of the Black Panthers proudly wore afro hairstyles, which helped change the negative perceptions associated with kinky hair.
- 80s-90s
The 1980s and 1990s saw a mix of trends. While some people continued to wear natural hairstyles, others opted for braids, weaves, and wigs. Hip-hop and popular media played a crucial role in popularizing different black hairstyles. Hair products specific to kinky hair continued to develop.
4.1 Nappy (or Nappies) Movement
The Nappy movement (a contraction of "natural" and "happy") emerged in the 1990s and 2000s, continuing the momentum of the "Black is Beautiful" movement. This movement advocates for a return to natural hair, without the use of chemical relaxers. It encourages individuals to accept and celebrate their kinky hair as it is. With the rise of social media, the Nappy movement has gained visibility, allowing many people to share their experiences, tips and hairstyles.
- 2000s to present
The early 21st century saw a resurgence in the natural movement, with more and more Black women and men choosing to wear their kinky or curly hair naturally. Online platforms and social media allowed people to share tips, tutorials, and experiences, building a stronger community. Hair care brands like SheaMoisture, Carol's Daughter, and more focused on the needs of natural hair.
- Current Movement
Today, wearing natural hair is widely accepted and celebrated in many cultures around the world. Anti-discrimination laws such as the CROWN Act in the United States aim to protect people from discrimination based on natural hairstyles in schools and workplaces. Kinky hair is recognized not only as an aesthetic feature but also as a symbol of culture, identity, and resilience.
Conclusion
The story of kinky hair is one of resilience and cultural pride. Despite centuries of stigma and discrimination, people of African descent have continually redefined and celebrated their unique beauty. Today , the acceptance of kinky hair has evolved considerably, but there are still challenges to overcome.